RHINOCEROS IN ASSAM
My Car is My Weapon
Assam, an Indian state in the northeastern part of the country, is famous not only for its tea but also for its tiger reserves and the last remaining one-horned rhinoceroses. I am heading on a journey to the Kaziranga National Park. I arrive by taxi, traveling along a road leading to the forests and the national park. From the car, I can already spot rhinoceroses bathing in a lake on the vast plain. I order a green jeep, which arrives shortly after. I'm nervous about the worn-out tires. After a moment, the vehicle stops and refuses to start. The driver is hitting the undercarriage with a hammer. I ask for a new car, as I don't want to end up face-to-face with a tiger. The young man responds calmly, saying there's nothing to fear: "My car is my weapon." In that moment, I call the main office and request a new vehicle, complete with a ranger carrying a gun. After some negotiation, the new jeep arrives, along with a guard with a shotgun. We are ready to go.
Respect for the One-Horned Rhinoceros
The car slowly moves along the bumpy road, and beautiful views of the wild nature open up. Every few kilometers, there is a watchtower with guards. In the distance, we finally spot rhinoceros. We move quietly toward them and stop beside them. The one-horned rhinoceros is a huge and awe-inspiring animal. "Yes, it has happened that a rhinoceros has killed a guard, but there is nothing to fear," my guide tells me. Two-thirds of the world's rhinoceros population (about 2,400) lives in the Kaziranga reserve, which is a UNESCO World Heritage site. In 2006, the park was also declared a tiger reserve. We do not spot any tigers, but the rhinoceroses and elephants march proudly only a few dozen meters from us. I experience a strange feeling, a mix of excitement, joy, and mild fear. The next day, I want to repeat the experience at dawn, this time riding an elephant.
On an Elephant at Dawn
t is 4:30 AM, the sun is just beginning to rise, and I’m sitting on an elephant, accompanied by four others on its "back." We start our journey into the dense jungle with heavy, slow steps. In the distance, the hills start to appear in the early morning light, and the Brahmaputra River sparkles. Directly beneath us, in the bushes, a giant rhinoceros is likely rising. From the elephant's back, though, the rhinoceros suddenly appears small, and with respect, it retreats into the thicket. We continue quietly on our path, anticipating a tiger encounter. Although the tiger doesn’t appear, observing the morning "hygiene" routine of the rhinoceros family is an unforgettable experience. After the ride, I begin to wonder whether it's right to ride an elephant and disturb the rhinoceroses in their natural home… I wonder what it’s like to send children in the rural areas to school, into the jungle, where they could unexpectedly encounter a tiger or a rhinoceros. The park spans 378 km². Rhinoceroses are one of the most endangered animals in the world, and thanks to the Kaziranga reserve, poachers are prevented from hunting them for their horns, which are used in traditional Asian medicine.
For a Moment, Part of the Animal Kingdom
The Kaziranga park itself was established in 1904 as a protective zone for the one-horned rhinoceroses. Baroness Curzon of Kedleston is considered the founder of the nature reserve along the banks of the Brahmaputra River. The reserve is home to around 35 species of animals, including rhinoceroses, Bengal tigers, leopards, wild buffalo, and bears. Deer are also easily spotted. Visiting this park evokes mixed feelings in me, pondering how far I, as a human, can go in my "hunger" for knowledge, and how deeply I can "slip" into the independent world of animals. Preparation for the trip is necessary. Don't expect comfort on the elephant or in the jeep. It's important to wear neutral green colors and not provoke nature with loud noises. Please don’t feed the rhinoceroses or other animals, and take binoculars. Only book your trip with the official park management!
